If you ask any celebrity what their favorite facial is before attending a significant event, they will most likely answer Fire and Ice. It’s often referred to as the “Red Carpet Facial” in Hollywood.
This advanced, non-invasive med spa treatment is so fast that it promises to resurface your skin within an hour. There’s no downtime, flaking, or irritation afterward. It’s easy to see why it has spawned tons of TikTok videos inspired by the hot and cold benefits of facials.
“Dunking your head in ice is a tradition that has existed for many years,” says Taylor Worden, Celebrity Esthetician. “Joan Crawford used to wash her face in ice water mixed with witch hazel every morning. It helps tighten the pores and makes your skin appear taut.
Although most people have had to experience ice baths before, thanks to Bella Hadid and Crawford’s social adventures in the name of beauty, some of us may not be as familiar with heat treatments. How safe is it to do it at home? We asked experts to weigh in.
“The Fire and Ice Facial is a signature treatment we are most known for,” says Melissa Pulcini-Buttine. Melissa is a Board-Certified Physician Assistant and the founder of EliVATE MedSpa. This intensive clinical treatment is designed for rapid (and safe) skin resurfacing, reducing fine lines, and wrinkles, smoothening, softening and encouraging cellular regeneration.
A treatment with the word fire in it might seem a bit scary. There is no fire involved. The 18% glycolic acid has a PH of 7.3. She adds that a combination of 2.3 and retinol can control resurfacing and texturing. The second half of the treatment (the “ice”) is a nourishing mixture of bio-nutrients and hyaluronic acids, providing a plump, hydrating finish to the fire.
Buttine states that the facial suits all Fitzpatrick skin types, ages, and complexions. There’s no downtime and no peeling or other side effects.
Worden states that the treatment typically consists of two types of masks: one that is heat-sensitive and causes your skin to feel warm/hot and increases circulation, and another that is cooling and helps you hydrate and soothe.
She shared that the facial makes your skin glow and super soft. If you ask our team, this is an excellent reason to get a medical-grade facial. The obvious question is: Can I do this at my home?
To do our due diligence, we consulted Dr. Kim Nichols, a Board-Certified Dermatologist who founded NicholsMD Greenwich. She answered our questions about whether fire and ice facials, especially the at-home ones, are safe. She warns that there are risks with ice and fire facials. “Any heat can cause capillary dilation, reddening, and damage the skin’s barrier. Extremely cold or icy objects and ice should not be left on the skin for more than a few seconds. Otherwise, you run the risk of getting redness and broken capillaries.
Nichols recommends that a board-certified professional perform your treatment to ensure you are safe playing with fire or ice. Her derm-approved trick for a similar facial is to use an at-home steamer to heat your skin, wash your face with your favorite cleanser and apply a soothing or hydrating serum or gel masque. She suggests you can also layer on a sheet mask for better penetration. After the masques have been removed, you can gently massage the face with cryo wands upwards. This will help to promote circulation, de-puff, and shape the overall appearance.
Avoid using laser or waxing on areas of the face for 72 hours before treatment. Buttine recommends stopping exfoliating or resurfacing products at least three days before treatment.
The best thing about the treatment is the speed of the results. You can immediately see a glow. Buttine says that your skin will feel flushed at first, but this effect will fade within 4-6 hours. You’ll feel glowing the next night, but it all depends on the quality of your at-home regimen.